Walking through the fruit and vegetable section of Preston Market on a Saturday afternoon can be a clamorous experience. As closing time ticks nearer, the shouting gets louder.
“Avocados, whole tray going cheap!” “Beautiful tomatoes, unbelievable prices!”
Two fruit shops have closed up at Preston Market in recent months.Credit:Justin McManus
It’s been a little bit quieter, however, among the rows of gleaming capsicums and crates of soil-covered potatoes in the past month or so after the closure of two well-established market fruiterers.
Both had traded at Preston Market for several decades before shuttering for good last month.
In their place are two empty stalls reflecting a northern suburbs institution being buffeted by the forces of gentrification, rising real estate prices and the pandemic.
“A lot of people have been shopping here for 30 years and they see what’s going on,” says one current trader about the market’s predicament. “But nobody knows what’s going to happen.”
Fadi Hamdani owner of Original Fruit & Nut store in the Preston Market.Credit:Justin McManus
Preston Market is more than 50 years old but some believe it faces the most important year of its existence in 2022, with a controversial redevelopment of the site looming and the state election set for the end of the year.
Neither of the departing fruit shop owners wanted to speak about why they left the market, which is privately-owned.
However, there is speculation that they were struggling to make the numbers work with high rent costs, short-term leases and the ongoing economic impact of COVID-19.
“It has been really felt by the market in terms of them leaving,” says independent Darebin councillor Gaetano Greco, who has campaigned for the Preston Market to stay as it is.
One of the vacant fruit shops at Preston Market. Credit:Tom Cowie
“It’s highlighted what’s going on. At the same time people love the market, the market still lives. They’ll keep coming. There’s been some turnover, the market keeps coming out on top.”
Those who have been at the market for long enough will have noticed how its customers have changed in recent years. The arrival of a younger clientele has attracted different types of shops to cater for them.
Alongside the fresh food and deli sections that have fed the north’s multicultural communities for generations, there’s been an influx of eateries and cafes reflecting the gentrification of suburbs such as Thornbury and Preston.
Some believe it’s caused a shift in what the market is about. Rather than a weekly visit to shop for essentials, the younger crowd might prefer to drop in just for lunch and to enjoy the atmosphere.
Preston Market has changed as a younger clientele moves in. Credit:Justin McManus
“The new generation, they don’t spend much money like the older people,” says owner of Original Fruit & Nut, Fadi Hamdani.
“People used to come here and buy for big families. They don’t have kids at home, they buy less.”
In the background of the market’s evolution are plans for an enormous property development that would make room for 2200 apartments with towers up to 20 storeys high.
The development has been highly contentious, with critics arguing it will change the character of the market completely. Darebin Council has pushed back against the proposal, saying it would threaten the “heartbeat of the community”.
An artist’s impression of what could be allowed under the draft controls, viewed from the southeast with the market in the centre and apartment buildings in the background.Credit:VPA
The Victorian Planning Authority is preparing submissions for Planning Minister Richard Wynne on how it should proceed, after draft plans were released for community consultation. Mr Wynne is not standing in November’s election.
Managing director of the market’s part-owner Salta Properties, Sam Tarascio, said it was unable to provide tenants long-term certainty until the planning issues were resolved.
He said the owners would try to fill the fruit shop vacancies with new tenants.
“We have good relationships with our traders, we meet frequently, and can assure the community there is no intention to move the market away from the current precinct or to interrupt trading,” he said, in a statement.
The entrance to Preston Market. Credit:Scott McNaughton
In its statement, Salta Properties also provided pro-development comments from a trader from MnM Fruit, Dom Mollica.
Mr Mollica said that the demographic of the market and Preston had changed with more young families moving into the area.
“To cater for the future, the market just needs to be brought up to modern standards and customer expectations, this includes the revitalisation of the entire Preston Market because the amenities are rundown or don’t exist,” he said.
Critics don’t dispute the need for a renovation but Cr Greco says the market has to retain its multicultural feel and working-class character, while avoiding becoming “another depersonalised shopping centre”.
Owner of Athina’s Deli, Jim Katsaros, echoes those sentiments: “If it’s going to be like Northland, it’s a waste of time.”
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