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Every month it feels like there’s a new ‘it’ ingredient in skincare.
As formulas get smarter, ingredients you may not have heard of get their moment in the spotlight.
But how do you separate confusing marketing with genuine good skin knowledge?
We’ve picked out the latest skin terms you need to know, and that are worth shopping in your next skincare order.
To make that part easier too, we’ve picked out products to reach for as well.
Arbutin
Dr Ana Mansouri, aesthetic doctor and SkinCeuticals expert, says this is a great ingredient for pigmentation.
‘Arbutin is a potent skin brightening agent which is effective for hyperpigmentation such as sun damage or even post-acne marks. It should be avoided in pregnancy,’ she says.
‘I recommend applying this once or twice per day in those who are looking to even out their skin tone.’
She recommends the Skinceuticals Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment moisturiser, which is designed for oily and acne prone skin types, and contains arbutin to target hyperpigmentation.
Skinceuticals Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment
Arbutin and azelaic acid power this one.
Ectoin
Although it’s not a new ingredient, this multitasker is finally getting some attention.
Experts say it’s great for hydration and skin barrier improvement, and it’s been compared to the benefits well-known ingredients like amino acids, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid.
Londoners, listen up, it can also have an ‘anti-pollution’ effect.
It works by binding moisture and can be used in tandem with plenty of other popular ingredients, because it won’t cause irritation – making it a ‘safe’ new ingredient to try.
Dr Jart Ceramidin Ectoin-Infused Moisture Cream
Enjoy the hydrating benefits here.
Kojic Acid
Dr Ana says: ‘This an active ingredient that is naturally derived through fermentation processes and is used in skincare due to its multiple benefits.
‘It acts as an antioxidant mopping up damaging free radicals which prevent skin ageing, as well as some anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.
‘It is also an effective tyrosinase inhibitor which means it suppresses melanin overproduction in the skin – resulting in skin brightening properties, which is an effective target for uneven skin tone, hyperpigmentation due to sun damage, or even acne marks (PIH).’
Kojic acid is suitable for daily use and isn’t known to be particularly harsh or irritating.
‘The speed of action of kojic acid depends on the severity of hyperpigmentation as well as the percentage and formulation of the product used,’ she adds.
‘Results are usually seen from 4-6 weeks of regular use onwards but improve with longer-term use.
‘The effects usually return if the product is stopped, so I recommend this as part of long-term maintenance of an even tone.’
Skinceuticals Phyto Corrective Serum
This is a lightweight soothing serum to tackle inflammation and redness.
Bio-retinol
We all know retinol doesn’t work for everyone.
Yes, it’s a powerhouse ingredient, but for some people it’s just too harsh.
There are plenty of retinol alternatives out there, but expect to see more bio options soon (which is when vitamin A is derived from plant extracts).
Though less aggressive (and some experts might argue less effective), if you’re using them consistently over a regular retinol once in a while when your skin can handle it, obviously the bio-retinol wins.
Evolve Organic Beauty Bio-Retinol + C Booster
A well-loved option that will appeal to those who enjoy natural and locally sourced ingredients – this one is made using plants from a farm in Hertfordshire.
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