Written by Morgan Fargo
Because we’re all so damn tired.
Chances are, you’re exhausted, burnt out, frazzled and overworked. The number of times your alarm is snoozed is only exceeded by the volume of coffee consumed before lunch and stifled snarfled yawns. Why does everything feel so hard on the other side of a bad night’s sleep? Well, besides feeling more irritable, a lack of sleep can cause cortisol (the stress hormone) imbalance and reduced collagen production which is crucial for elasticity and suppleness in the skin.
According to a 2015 study, transepidermal water loss (the amount of moisture lost from the skin) is significantly higher after a poor night’s sleep – indicating compromised skin barrier function and recovery from exposure to UV light. The hydrated skin we layer product after product on to have is undermined by the hours we’re spending staring at the ceiling. While we can’t control what exactly limits your sleep (familial responsibilities, frenetic work schedules, emotional stress or otherwise), we can help you maximise the way your skin, hair and nails recover while you’re trying – consider it a sleepover, of sorts.
1. Make lipids a priority
The amount of moisture we lose from the skin increases in winter, thanks to central heating, biting winds and the difference between them. The way our skin operates is pulled in different directions, often to the detriment of its hydration. To counteract this, there are some key ways to push as much water back into our skin while we’re kipping.
“A lack of lipids (natural fats that help maintain the strength of the skin) reduces the ability of the skin to retain water, so it is best to add lipids to your overnight routine for extra nourishment,” says the founder of cult brand Lixirskin and dermo-pharmacist Dr Colette Haydon. “Mix your moisturiser with something such as our Night Switch Essential Lipids. It replenishes the lipids of the cell membrane to help build a strong epidermal wall.”
Another way of maintaining moisture in the skin is swapping your cleanser for an oil-based product. There are cleansing balms and cleansing oils that melt make-up away, removing residual make-up, SPF and environmental debris. The Medik8 Lipid Balance Cleansing Oil, £24.65 and CeraVe Hydrating Foaming Oil Cleanser, £12.50 are hardworking, lipid-filled cleansers I turn to when the temperature drops so drastically.
2. Skip strong exfoliators
While tempting, bedtime is not the best time to go full throttle on powerful exfoliators. Although you’re lying supine for an extended period of time (seems ideal, but it isn’t), your skin is still as vulnerable to overdoing it as when you’re up and at ‘em. Instead, gentle exfoliators will help to loosen dead and dry skin, clear congestion and improve skin texture and tone – they just require a little consistent use to get there.
“I would use an alpha-hydroxy acid, such as a 15% glycolic acid, as a gentle-enough peel for overnight,” advises HCA dermatologist, Dr Angela Tewari. “However, I would avoid using salicylic acid at night as it’s a beta-hydroxy acid and therefore stronger. If you’re not sure, think ‘s’ for strong.”
Not sure where to start with overnight exfoliation? Try The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA, £6.90 (great for sensitive skin) or the Skinceuticals Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight, £80, both suitable for nightly use without exacerbating any issues.
If brightness or uneven skin tone is one of your main concerns, adding in vitamin C could help you more than you realise. “A vitamin C serum is a great product to use overnight,” says Dr Ross Perry, Cosmedics medical director. “Packed full of antioxidants, it protects the skin against environmental factors and also helps with hydration if the skin often feels tight, flaky and dry. It will make the skin appear brighter, firmer and smoother while tackling enlarged pores, as well. Vitamin C also targets uneven skin tone and can be beneficial for mature skin.
Why a serum, though? “Molecules in serums are smaller than molecules in a moisturiser which allows the product to absorb much deeper into the pores,” explains Dr Perry. “To get the best results from using a serum, cleanse and tone as normal before applying a few drops of serum into the palm of your hands then gently pat or moisturise into your skin.:
3. Choose hair oils over masks
An overnight mask will solve all hair woes, right? Not so much. According to Michael Douglas, celebrity hairstylist and the founder of mdlondon, keeping a treatment in all night won’t necessarily reap the rewards you seek.
“The hair can only absorb so much of the key ingredients, something that is usually done within a 10-15 minute window depending on which brand you are using,” he explains. “To sleep in a hair mask is essentially trying to force more of the hair mask goodness into the hair but it’s already full of it. I would say there aren’t any real benefits to it, it may also make hair overly soft, which can make it very difficult to style.”
So save your masking for a quiet afternoon working from home or the time just before you hit the hay. Leaning over the tub is always an option if you don’t want to hop back in the shower or bath. Celebrity and session hairstylist Lewis Pallett has a key bit of advice for rinsing away a treatment: “I would always recommend rinsing the mask off with cold water as it seals the cuticle, whereas heat opens it up. If you can handle it, a cold rinse is the best thing to seal the moisture into your hair.”
If you do want to maximise the health and efficiency of your nightly hair routine, Douglas suggests doubling down on oils and experimentation: “Oils can be very good at making the hair feel tangle-free and soft to the touch. OGX do a fantastic range of oils that are really good for slugging (the technique where you put plenty on the mid-length to the ends and wrap up in a hair wrap overnight) but experimentation is key in finding what product works best for your hair.”
Main image: Getty
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