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The delicate skin around the eyes can be tricky to keep supple and hydrated during winter, particularly if you have a more dry, mature complexion. Using makeup to cover fine lines, dullness and dark circles can often make your skin look worse without solving these problems first, though one makeup artist has come up with a solution. She shared a clever tip to ensure you can still benefit from light coverage, without a cakey or textured finish.
In a recent video on her TikTok profile, @tabejakate, a specialist in “easy, over 40 makeup” revealed that the order you apply your makeup could be the reason your under eyes look textured and creased.
She said: “If you have mature skin, I’m going to show you why you should be using your undereye colour before your main foundation colour.
“The skin under our eyes is where we typically show our age. It’s thin, it’s fragile, there are fine lines, there’s texture, there’s discolouration. Because of all of this, and to prevent creasing, we want to get away with this little amount of product under our eyes as possible.”
According to the mature makeup artist, using too many layers of makeup around this thin area of skin – particularly close to the water line, should be avoided at all costs.
In the video, @tabejakate said: “If you start with the foundation and bring your foundation up too high, you’re going to end up with a double layer of makeup.”
She showed herself applying a brightening product on her bare face instead of foundation or concealer, bringing it right up to her under eyes and down to the cheekbones.
It’s not just the under eyes that you should apply this trick to either. In fact, according to the beauty expert, it works for the entire face and is known as “underpainting”.
The TikTok star gently brushed the same brightening product down the side of her nose, and along the jawline to “really snatch it in”.
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She explained: “Most days, I’m actually using more of my brightening shade than I am of my foundation shade. By doing this, I’m bringing light to my face, and I’m softening my face.”
While the makeup expert noted that it may seem counterintuitive to use more of the low-coverage brightener, it is the best way to create a “youthful, fresh, vibrant look”.
The social media user added that once you have your under-eye and illuminating product on, you can go in and spot-treat the areas that are leftover, using foundation.
This may include the nose, forehead, and just under the more bronzed areas of your face on the cheeks and temples.
If you don’t have a brightening product, @tabejakate explained that you can use a concealer instead. However, she warned against using certain kinds of makeup.
She said: “Don’t go too light or use a heavy formula. That is where undereye makeup can go wrong!”
As long as it is lighter in texture and shade than your foundation, the technique should work just fine.
When it comes to application, the makeup artist recommended using “a light hand” and hydrating products beforehand to help the products “melt in like a moisturiser”.
Unlike most makeup tutorials which involve setting the creamy or liquid products in place with a powder, the mature beauty expert advised against it for mature complexions, she noted that ultra-long wear, thick, matte-finish, and heavy powders and highlighters should all be avoided to prevent under-eye creasing.
The TikTok artist added: “Unless you are heavily botox under your eyes, this thin fragile skin is going to move when you smile, it’s going to move throughout the day and shimmy into those fine lines, and you’re going to see a line of makeup. This happens with almost every kind of makeup.”
Instead, she suggested sticking to thin fluids and using a damp beauty blender to finish the under-eye area after application. This helps to “push in” the cosmetics and remove any excess for a “natural” finish.
Setting spray can be over the face, though the eye area should be avoided to prevent the products from settling into the lines and being set in place.
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